Stab resistant fabric on show at Fashion Week
17 September, 2007
A stab-resistant, flame resistant fabric created by Crown Research Institute AgResearch is this week being displayed at
Air New Zealand Fashion Week for the first time.
A material that could interest a real life James Bond, for its style, comfort and extraordinary functional qualities, is
being displayed on a mannequin in the Main Gallery throughout the week.
The stab resistant vest is made from a knitted Vectran based fabric (a non-cut, ultra high strength liquid crystal
polymer) and combined with short wool fibre that is packed into the outer fabric surface.
AgResearch Research Associate Maree Hamilton-Chisholm says the fabric will resist puncture or knife penetration, is
lightweight, comfortable to wear and has the dual benefits of the breathability and comfort of wool as well as the
puncture resistance of the Vectran component. She says the fabric is suitable for casual vests or jackets.
"Whilst not bullet proof, the fabric is able to resist penetration by a knife and is also cut resistant."
Wool, a natural protein fibre, is flame resistant and when exposed to severe heat will char into carbon, but does not
ignite. This carbon then forms a protective barrier against further heat. The Vectran yarns hold this carbon in place
making the fabric capable of withstanding severe temperature "flashover" without causing serious injury to the wearer or
undue damage to the inherent fabric integrity.
"This is offered as an alternative stab, cut and fire resistant fabric developed to protect the wearer from the ever
changing and sometimes hostile world we live in," says Maree Hamilton-Chisholm.
Also modelled by the mannequin is a machine-washable suit that, in a world first, is made from 100 per cent wool
(18.5-19 micron) without the use of any chemicals, is shrink resistant, and has high natural stretch and a lively drape.
The Natural Easy Care (NEC) fabric was developed by researchers from AgResearch's Textiles team, based at Lincoln near
Christchurch, for client Australian Wool Innovations (AWI).
AgResearch Chief Executive Dr Andrew West showed his support for the NEC fabric technology by wearing a wool suit made
from an NEC fabric during the 2007 National Fieldays. "We demonstrated a shirt made from this fabric earlier this year
but this is the first suit to be made from this amazing natural material. It's machine washable but do remember to take
it off first!" he says.
Traditionally, wool has not been used for business shirting because it has to be lightweight. To enable weaving, two
single yarns are plied together but they become too thick to use for garments such as shirts.
The NEC fabric utilises a single worsted yarn which is created by specially designed rollers that are easily
retro-fitted to an existing spinning frame. The grooved rollers split the wool strand into micro-yarns, which are made
up of well interlocked fibres. The resulting single yarn has improved surface abrasion resistance, to withstand the
stresses and strains imposed during weaving, and can be woven into a light-weight fabric.
Whilst the development of this wool suit is well advanced, there is still some work required before it is fully viable.
AgResearch Senior Scientist Dr Surinder Tandon says the suiting fabric has a number of beneficial qualities. "The fabric
does not rely on any chemical treatments. This means that there are significant environmental benefits, which we believe
will also be an advantage for retailers eager to serve the needs of discerning, environmentally aware consumers."
Dr Tandon has travelled to China, Korea, Japan and Mexico over the last 24 months advising manufacturers on
retro-fitting their spinning frames with the technology. "It is a surprisingly easy conversion," he says.
ENDS