Designers From Eight Countries Win Awards in WOW
Designers From Eight Countries Win Awards in Prestigious
World of Wearableart (WOW®) Competition
Designers from eight countries have won awards at the prestigious World of WearableArt™ (WOW®) Awards in Wellington, New Zealand. The 2018 show features 140 finalist garments by 147 designers from 17 countries and regions, vying for 39 awards.
New Zealand’s largest theatrical performance, WOW is celebrating its 30th anniversary season in 2018. WOW combines the world’s leading wearable art design competition with a spectacular stage show that attracts an annual audience of around 60,000 people - over 40,000 of those travelling to the capital city from across New Zealand and around the globe.
This year’s Supreme WOW Award winner was WAR sTOrY by Natasha English and Tatyanna Meharry of Christchurch, New Zealand. The sisters are the first ever two-time Supreme WOW Award Winners, having taken the top award in 2013 for The Exchange. This year’s Supreme garment commemorates the more than 128,000 New Zealand men and women who served in World War I, of which more than 18,000 never returned home. It was created using recycled objects such as old army and household blankets, salvaged rimu from demolished houses, old collected plastic toy soldiers, broken crushed red bricks and traded pieces of pounamu to create the garment.
WOW Founder and Head Judge Dame Suzie Moncrieff says WAR sTOrY is “a garment that the judges described as an exceptional example of powerful storytelling realised through a work of art. An entry that the judges described as an exceptionally compelling realisation of a thought-provoking narrative that is flawless in its execution.”
Launched by Dame Suzie in 1987, WOW takes art off the wall and onto the human form. Over the past three decades, WOW has attracted some of the most cutting edge creative designers from across the globe. This year entries from 44 countries and regions vied for a coveted spot onstage. A record 17 countries and regions were represented in the show, showcasing designs by professionals from the fashion, art, design, costume and theatre industries, alongside students and first-time enthusiasts. WOW provides an opportunity for these creatives to experiment, push boundaries and explore design, materials and techniques.
This year’s show is presented as a series of six worlds, each with its own design provocation that designers have responded to. Along with the recurring Avant-garde, Aotearoa and Open sections are Under the Microscope, Reflective Surfaces and the biennial Bizarre Bra.
WOW’s 2018 judging panel consisted of WOW Founder Dame Suzie Moncrieff; Margarita Robertson, Creative Director of iconic fashion label NOM*d; Sam Gao, Weta Workshop Art Director and Business Development Manager; Weta Workshop Co-founder and CEO Sir Richard Taylor; Cirque du Soleil’s Nathalie Bouchard and International Guest judge Mary Wing To.
Garments go through a three-stage judging process to end up onstage, beginning in July. The garments are assessed for detail as well as their performance on stage.
World of WearableArt is on at TSB Arena, Wellington from September 27 until October 14. Tickets and more information at worldofwearableart.com.
Full list of
winners
WAR
sTOrY by Natasha English and Tatyanna Meharry
(Christchurch, New Zealand)
Winner: Supreme WOW
Award
Winner: Aotearoa Section
Ernst
Haeckel’s Bride by Nika Danielska (Wroclaw,
Poland)
Runner Up: Supreme WOW Award
Winner:
Under the Microscope
Section
Mind the
Synaptic Gap by Grace DuVal (Chicago, United
States)
Winner: Dame Suzie Moncrieff
Award
Feminine
Hell by Xia Tian, Yang Mengtong & He Fangyu (Shanghai,
China)
Runner Up: Dame Suzie Moncrieff
Award
Ancient
Dreamscape by Kayla Christensen (Wellington, New
Zealand)
Second: Aotearoa
Section
Tar’White by Ali Middleton
(Wellington, New Zealand)
Third: Aotearoa
Section
Foreign
Bodies by Dawn Mostow and Ben Gould (Seattle, United
States)
Winner: International Award: Americas
Design Award
Winner: International Design
Award
Second: Under the Microscope
Section
Coccinelle
by Svenja (Brisbane, Australia)
Third: Under the
Microscope Section
Underling by Gillian
Saunders (Nelson, New Zealand)
Winner: Open
Section
WOW Tools
of the Trade by Shelley Scott (Auckland, New
Zealand)
Second: Open
Section
Ajaw
Eamanom by David Walker (Eugene, United
States)
Third: Open
Section
Uplifting
by David Kirkpatrick (Waikato, New
Zealand)
Winner: Bizarre Bra
Section
Le
Spectacle! by Erna Van Der Wat and Karl Van Der Wat
(Auckland, New Zealand)
Second: Bizarre Bra
Section
Abreast of
Time by Janice Elliott (Christchurch, New
Zealand)
Third: Bizarre Bra Section
Echoplex - Goddess of Reverb by Natalie
Hutton (Melbourne, Australia)
Winner:
Avant-garde
Section
Axminstress
by Kate MacKenzie (Hawkes Bay, New
Zealand)
Second: Avant-garde Section
Runner
Up: Sustainability Award
Tangka by Qiongwen
Zhang (London, United Kingdom)
Third:
Avant-garde
Section
The Wise
Athena by Lau Siu San & Cathy, Sin Wei Chow (Hong Kong,
China)
Winner: Reflective Surfaces
Section
Winner: International Award: Asia Design
Award
Hilandera
by Julio Manuel Campos Lopez (Madrid,
Spain)
Second: Reflective Surfaces
Section
Lady Ethereal by Dawn Mostow
(Seattle, United States) and Snow Winters (Tacoma, United
States)
Third: Reflective Surfaces
Section
Eye See you Fluffy Kōwhai by Tina
Hutchison-Thomas (Christchurch, New
Zealand)
Winner: New Zealand Design
Award
Absinthium by R.R. Pascoe (Blue
Mountains, Australia)
Winner: International
Award: Australia and Pacific Design Award
Blue
Star by Adam McAlavey (London, United
Kingdom)
Winner: International Award: United
Kingdom and Europe Design Award
Quantum by
Annabelle Widmann (Santa Eulalia, Spain)
Winner:
Cirque du Soleil Invited Artisan Award
Hide and Seek
by Mingzhang Sun (London, United
Kingdom)
Winner: First-Time Entrant
Award
Baroness of
Vortex 6 by Laura Thapthimkuna (Chicago, United States),
Stephen Ions (Biddulph Moor, United Kingdom) & Patrick
Delorey (New York City, United States)
Runner
Up: First-Time Entrant Award
Shell
by Zhang Qiyao (Shanghai, China)
Winner:
Student Innovation Award
Under the Skin by
Louise Byford (London, United Kingdom)
Runner
Up: Student Innovation Award
Something Fishy: A
Man-Eater Double Feature by Wendy Moyer (San Miguel de
Allende, Mexico)
Winner: Sustainability
Award
236 Maiden Lane by Lynn Christiansen
(San Francisco, United States)
Winner: Wearable
Technology
Award
Tangible
Duality by Hanna Smith (Avoca Beach,
Australia)
Runner Up: Wearable Technology
Award
Spirit
Bone by Guo Xiao Tong (Beijing,
China)
Winner: Weta Workshop Emerging Designer
Award
Kākāpō Queen by Stephanie Cossens
(Wellington, New Zealand)
Runner Up: Weta
Workshop Emerging Designer Award
Winner
Stories
Australia
Hanna
Smith’s (Avoca Beach, Australia) garment
Tangible Duality crosses the divide between particle
physics and fashion. “Fashion provides the medium for
expressing and experiencing this invisible physics,” she
says. The first time World of WearableArt designer says the
garment is an attempt to marry her two great interests,
which previously seemed conflicted. “I had continued to
feel drawn toward the study of physics, despite having
chosen to pursue my first love, costume design,” Smith
says. The garment explores the interplay between positive
and negative space, and was inspired by contemporary lace.
Smith used laser cut cork bonded with wool, offering
strength, lightness, and wearability to the
garment.
Svenja
(Brisbane, Australia) explores her continued
fascination with the shapes, textures and iridescent
metallic colours of insects in Coccinelle. French for
beetle, Coccinelle explores insect beauty on a larger
scale in haute couture form. Svenja was inspired by Thierry
Mugler’s 1997 haute couture collection which explores the
forms and beauty of insects. This is Svenja’s 12th World
of WearableArt entry, having won first place awards in 2013
for Hakuturi and 2014 with Fenghuang.
The sonic shapes and textures Natalie Hutton (Melbourne, Australia) sees and feels when listening to music provided the inspiration for her garment Echoplex - Goddess of Reverb. She says it’s a combination of “the sharp lines and soft curves that grip, ripple, reflect and repeat off the planes of the body and flow onto the ground like goosebumps down your spine and arms when listening to that perfect song.” More than 50 metres of silk were meticulously hand stitched into a honeycomb grid before being sculpted into its final form. Hutton says it took more than 360 hours to create the garment which she started thinking about in 2010 while listening to music on the train, beginning the physical construction in 2016. Hutton is a first-time designer for World of WearableArt.
R.R. Pascoe (Blue Mountains, Australia) was inspired by the fabled hallucinogenic properties of the Wormwood plant in creating her garment Absinthium. “The Wormwood plant had an influence on the artistic styles and emerging arts movements of the Art Nouveau era,” she says. To create the garment, Pascoe used about 500 metres of hemp braid which was stitched, hand pleated and sculpted.
China
Lau Siu San and Cathy, Sin Wei Chow’s (Hong Kong, China) garment The Wise Athena was created to honour the courage of self-reflection. Playing on Socrates’ quote ‘knowing thyself is the height of wisdom’, Lau and Chow used PVC, mirror and gemstones to create the garment that reflects the beauty of Athena and her own universe - represented by the headpiece. The pair aimed for the simplest structure for the garment that wouldn’t crack or break under its own weight, settling on polycarbonate mirror. “It is able to reflect light from the environment during movements but avoids material fracture,” Lau says. The headpiece was lasercut in 2D, which naturally fell to create a 3D element resembling the universe. The garment’s nude element symbolises human energy and life, as well as the way the naked form has been celebrated and chastised at various points of human history since Ancient Greece.
Guo Xiao Tong’s (Beijing, China) garment Spirit Bone represents the enduring power of bone. While our appearance ages and changes, bone remains firm and immortal, long after the spirit leaves the body. This is Guo’s second World of WearableArt entry, having first created Born to Die in 2013.
Zhang Qiyao’s (Shanghai, China) garment Shell is described as a “sharp defense shell formed by an external stimulus to protect the soft body.” Qiyao is a first time World of WearableArt designer and a recent graduate of Donghua University.
The inspiration for Xia Tian, Yang Mengtong and He Fangyu’s (Shanghai, China) garment Feminine Hell is the Chinese legend of Shura hell. “This dress symbolises the sacrifice of innocent women swallowed by the hell monster,” Tian says. The legend says that after death prisoners will be banished to 18 different hells to suffer different punishments by monsters who swallow their souls, becoming part of the monster, she says. The garment is made from silica gel to create 400 different pained female bodies.
Mexico
Mexican folkloric creatures alebrijes were inspiration for Wendy Moyer’s (San Miguel de Allende, Mexico) garment Something Fishy: A Man-Eater Double Feature. Alebrijes are said to populate dreams, taking the shape of various animals combined with electric colours and endless patterns. “They remind me of the familiar but odd creatures of my childhood dreams. Most were fanciful, some were terrifying and none were drab and dull,” she says. It took her more than 28 weeks to create her garment, constructing and sculpting layers, creating the harness then sculpting the tentacles, heads, body and fins from wire mesh. Among the materials used in the garment are 54 clock gears, 82 large turquoise rings, 59 hearing-aid batteries, 155 watch buckles and 186 diamond scales. Many of the materials were recycled and items destined for landfill. This is her fourth finalist garment since 2010.
New Zealand
Auckland
region
Nana’s pin cushion was inspiration for
Shelley Scott’s (Mount Eden, Auckland)
garment WOW Tools of the Trade. Scott, who had a
total of four finalist garments in this year’s WOW Awards
Show (two that she created with her daughters Jaime and
Ashley), says while creating her entry last year she wanted
to showcase the unconventional tools often used to create
WOW garments. “I noticed my old pin cushion that I had
inherited from my Nana. I looked around my workroom at all
the various things I use to create my entries - from pliers,
blowtorches, heatguns, glue guns, sewing machine, hammers -
the list goes on and on.” Scott says the garment is a
testament to the New Zealand No.8 Wire mentality that helps
us be resourceful and creative. “Our ability - borne out
of isolation - to improvise, create, invent, explore and
adapt in order to solve problems is embodied in the WOW
entries we submit,” she says. Scott is a first-time WOW
finalist.
Le Spectacle! is designed to be a
“celebration of the most amazing, eye-popping extravaganza
of a show - none other than WOW!” says Erna Van
Der Wat who designed the winning garment with her
husband Karl Van Der Wat (Karaka,
Auckland). A play on the words ‘spectacles’
(eyeglasses); ‘a spectacle’ (sight to behold); and ‘Le
Spectacle’ (a spectacular live show), Erna says the
garment celebrates WOW’s 30th anniversary show and the
artistic journey designers have gone one. The designers were
inspired by Erna’s Grandmama’s glamorous 1940s
spectacles and were created using perspex, paper, vinyl film
and LEDs bringing the garments’ peeping eyes to life. The
Van Der Wat’s have had eight previous finalist garments
since 2006. Their 2011 garment, Reflection won the
WOW Factor Award (now the Dame Suzie Moncrieff Award) and
the People’s Choice
Award.
Waikato
David
Kirkpatrick (Tuakau, Waikato) put his mechanical
engineering background to work in his first-ever WOW
garment, Uplifting. The Bizarre Bra is inspired by
the GE X jet engine and 787 wing designs. Kirkpatrick says
creating the garment helped him during a low period. “The
project ‘uplifted’ me from a depressive point in my life
by giving me a focus outside of the pressures of work and
family life. The opportunity has given me space to create
outside of my usual work design pressures” He used a small
home 3D printer and fibreglass to create the garment,
transforming his garage into his workspace. “It was
challenging creating a large garment using a small home 3D
printer, and combining old and new technologies together by
using computer design but then using hours of hand
finishing,” he
says.
Hawkes
Bay
Kate MacKenzie (Havelock
North, Hawkes Bay) is a practising artist and former WOW
Supreme Award winner who took her inspiration from carpets
and hall runners for her 2018 entry, Axminstress.
MacKenzie lamented the replacing of “woollen works of art
that graced our floors and warmed our hearts” with
“beige colourless weavings” and upcycled childhood
memories into this Avant-garde garment. MacKenzie sourced
the Axminster carpets from Trade Me: “The floral carpet
was the exact image in my head… I don’t know why I had
such a connection to this carpet, but it may be that my
Grandma had it in her house.” The carpets required a lot
of cleaning before they could be used to create her garment
- “I hired a professional carpet cleaner and did a million
rain dances on the upturned rugs to dislodge years of grit
embedded in the wool.” MacKenzie won the Supreme WOW Award
in 2014 for Poly Nation. This is her sixth finalist
garment.
Wellington
region
Kayla Christensen
(Island Bay, Wellington) took inspiration from her ancestors
for her garment Ancient Dreamscape. “As night
dawns, the soul leaves the body and goes into a distinct
dream realm. My ancestors live there, they are waiting to be
remembered,” she says. “The ancestors that communicate
while I sleep tell a story of my whakapapa and where I have
come from.” She describes it as a “surreal feeling of
waking up after being in another world and meeting my
grandmothers with a sense of deja vu.” A talented artist,
Christensen has painted the stories of her dreams, each
portrait representing a grandmother with a family heirloom
or a story that connects to a part of her culture. She drew,
painted and sewed each painting by hand. Christensen has
previously had six finalist garments in WOW and this year,
for a period, reduced her hours at work to dedicate more
time to her WOW entry. “I have pushed myself to the limits
to create something that I have pulled from my dreams and
into reality, sharing a little piece of my imagination for
all to see.” Her 2017 entry, Kuini won her Third
place in the Aotearoa Section and she’s previously won one
other award. She studied fashion design at Massey
University.
Inspired by the story of an early European
whaler who was saved by Te Rauparaha, Ali
Middleton’s (Seatoun, Wellington) garment
Tar’White weaves together Māori and Pākehā
cultures. Cloaks were born out of necessity for protection
from the cold and many indigenous fibres were used to weave
the cloaks, which were passed down through generations. The
relationship between early Māori and Europeans,
particularly during the rise of shore-based whaling, is
explored through Middleton’s garment. “While Māori were
quick to recognise the economic benefits of developing
positive working relationships with Europeans, trade and
other Pākehā practices were accepted on Māori terms with
concepts like mana, tapu and utu playing significant
roles.” The story of James (Worser) Heberley who narrowly
missed death through the act of Te Rauparaha covering him
with his cloak - symbolising protection - interested
Middleton. “Te Rauparaha issued a warning “Hoki ki to
kainga” (go home). Heberley took that advice and paddled
back to Waikanae to pick up his wife Te Wai and their
daughter, then paddled his canoe across the Cook Strait to
their home in Te Awaiti (later known as Tar’White). This
was New Zealand’s first shore-based whaling station. The
year, 1833.” This is Middleton’s ninth finalist garment,
having started entering WOW in
2008.
Stephanie
Cossens (Johnsonville, Wellington) is a sculptor
with an interest in soft sculpture and ceramics. A first
time entrant of WOW, her garment Kākāpō Queen is
created to raise awareness for the critically endangered
birds with fewer than 160 left. “I wanted to create a
garment that highlights the distinctive plump softness of
the bird while also representing its strength, endurance,
curiosity and confidence,” Cossens says. She created the
headpiece entirely by hand, bending and riveting aluminium
and sculpting each individual clay feather. “Using my
hands I become close to the animal that emerges, taking time
to be gentle and nurturing as the creature unfolds. Cossens
studied visual arts at Otago Polytechnic and works as a
freelance artist out of Honey Badger Creative
Studio.
Nelson
Gillian
Saunders’ (Richmond, Nelson) garment,
Underling, is the second in an intended set of three
garments celebrating WOW anniversaries. Gillian’s 2013
entry Inkling was tattoo and body art themed and was
created for WOW’s 25th anniversary. Now she brings the
second installment with Underling, a street art and
graffiti-themed garment. The garment’s character is an
“urban art warrior”, Saunders says, “committing art
crimes to bring joy to inner city dwellers. But after a
sudden and unexpected turn of events, she was forced to take
her art off the walls, bridges and underpasses to adorn her
body in the underworld.” Saunders took home the Supreme
WOW Award in 2016 for her garment Supernova and has
had 16 previous garments in the WOW Awards since
2000.
Christchurch
Previous
Supreme WOW Award Winners, Natasha English
and Tatyanna Meharry (CBD,
Christchurch) have had six finalist
garments on the WOW stage since they began entering in 2012.
The sisters created their 2018 entry, WAR sTOrY as a
representation of the more than 120,000 New Zealand men and
women who served in World War I, of which more than 18,000
never returned home. The pair began planning for this
garment in 2014, refining their ideas with the goal of
getting it onstage in 2018, the centenary of the end of the
Great War. They used recycled objects including old army and
household blankets, salvaged rimu from demolished houses,
old collected plastic toy soldiers, broken crushed red
bricks and traded pieces of pounamu to create the garment.
“We wanted to include as many tangible memories as well,
using recycled materials that have been either collected
over the years, traded or salvaged to help imbue this art
piece with memories for past, current and future
generations,” English says. The heavy weight of the
memories and stories of the past pave the way for future
generations of mokopuna to carry, she says. “The badges
and symbols of honour are now worn by our generation, a
deserving remembrance in this centenary year.” In 2013,
their garment, The Exchange won the Supreme WOW
Award, and they’ve picked up four other awards including
runner up to Supreme award in 2016 for Baroque
Star.
With 16 WOW finalist garments since 2006 and five finalist awards, Janice Elliott (Papanui, Christchurch) has spent a lot of time living and breathing WOW. One of two garments in this year’s show, Abreast of Time is a literal rumination on the concept of the ticking of the clock. Elliott says “Here is an old mantle clock illuminating the history of time. It comes from way back in time, some other time, when you could take your time. No one would ask ‘what’s the time?’ we didn’t run behind time and life was timeless.” Elliott says it’s a reminder to “take your time and keep ‘abreast of time’.”
Seeking inspiration from insects for this
design, Tina Hutchison-Thomas (Mt Pleasant,
Christchurch) settled on the poodle moth. The result is
Eye See You Fluffy Kōwhai, which has been created
with faux fur and crystals. Hutchison-Thomas explains: “I
was drawn to the poodle moth with its beautiful fluffy body,
which reminds me of luxurious opera cloaks from the
1920s.” Hutchison-Thomas set herself the task of dyeing
non-traditional fabric like faux fur to create the garment,
sewing about 3,500 crystals on the wings representing the
eye you see on many butterflies and moths. This is
Hutchison-Thomas’s second garment in WOW, having first
entered in
2017.
Poland
Nika
Danielska (Wroclaw, Poland) created her garment
Ernst Haeckel's Bride after visiting Dublin in 2017
where she went to see the Book of Kells, a Medieval
manuscript from the 9th Century, however, she found the
museum was closed. To cheer herself up she headed to a
nearby bookshop where she discovered the book Art Forms
in Nature by Ernst Haeckel, immediately falling in love
with his illustrations. She was inspired particularly by
radiolarians, microscopic intricate mineral skeletons and
created the garment using wire, paper, paint and glue. “I
know Haeckel’s works have been inspiration to many artists
and this is my personal tribute to this great biologist and
artist,” she says. This is Danielska’s first time
entering World of WearableArt, and she has two finalist
entries in this year’s competition.
Spain
Las Hilanderas (“The Spinners”)
by Velazquez, also known as the Fable of Arachne, was the
source of inspiration for Julio Manuel Campos
Lopez’s (Madrid, Spain) garment Hilandera.
Velazquez’s tapestry depicting the fable shows the mortal
Arachne challenged by the goddess Athena to a weaving
competition. On winning, Athena turned Arachne into a
spider. “Much fashion starts with the spinning of fibres
and weaving of cloth. This piece continues this tradition
but challenges the convention of what is fabric and how
it’s made,” he says. Growing up in a family of
ropemakers, Campos Lopez discovered his passion for using
threads as an art medium at a young age. Like a spider he
weaved onto a circular frame, treating threads with resins
and weaving in graduated colours to create the garment.
“The beauty of the resulting garment is the lightness, the
sinuosity of the curvaceous shapes lightly wrapping the body
in an infinite loop,” he says. This is Campos Lopez’s
first time entering World of WearableArt.
Lycra, latex, and air were used to create Annabelle Widmann’s (Santa Eulalia, Spain) garment Quantum, a representation of amplified atomic particles, exposed as a three-dimensional configuration. “Quantum is exactly that what we don’t see, it is that mystery that lies between you and me. It is the interconnecting particle that fills this space, binding us in unity,” Widmann says. She is a first time World of WearableArt designer.
United Kingdom
The character of Qiongwen Zhang’s (London, United Kingdom) garment Tangka is described as a “powerful heroine crossing time and space.” PVC, beads, and padding were used to create the triptych that makes up Tangka. Zhang says the character “travels across space and time and mixes the elements of stained glass from Western culture and the traditional Tibetan art form Tangka together.” This is Zhang’s first time as a World of WearableArt designer.
About 50,000 buttons were used to create Mingzhang Sun’s (London, United Kingdom) garment Hide and Seek. Sun, a first-time designer, says it represents an HIV patient. He hand pressed each button to create the garment. “They are in the pattern of different animals and it represents the food chain. The food chain represents the patient eaten by the virus,” Sun says. Having finished the garment and been through long-term treatment himself, Sun says the garment brings back lots of memories “which relate to the reason that I made this artwork, and I am very happy that I made it to this stage.”
Adam McAlavey (London, United Kingdom) says his garment, Blue Star, represents the horror and wonder he feels looking at the stars. “The scale of time and space I can’t comprehend gives me endless nightmares and inspiration.” Each of the three latex sections are placed on the body and air is vacuumed out to create precise and elegant shapes, while constricting and controlling the model’s movement. McAlavey says he wanted to see how far he could push what’s possible making wearable latex vacuumed shapes. “The idea is to completely restrict many parts of the human body and only allow specific parts to move, creating a human puppet.” McAlavey, who’s had two previous World of WearableArt award-winning garments, says it’s taken more than a year to find a concept that allows the model to move and walk. McAlavey was the 2017 Cirque du Soleil Invited Artisan Award winner.
Louise Byford’s (London, United Kingdom) garment Under the Skin explores the ideas of costume as a second skin. Latex has been sculpted and distorted to represent muscular-like tissue and veinal structures, bringing our innards to the surface. “It aims to question ideas around beauty, the grotesque, and the way in which we judge humans based on appearance. It also explores the idea of ‘genetic manipulation’, re-shaping and distorting the silhouette through sculptural and architectural forms,” Byford says. She stretched latex sheets over giant frames and poured liquid latex coloured with paint over the top, blending and spreading it and leaving it to dry before releasing the sheets from their frames to create the distorted ridges and grotesque shapes.
United
States
Lynn
Christiansen (San Francisco, United States) has
created a garment satisfying her childhood fascination for
where princesses from fairy tales live. 236 Maiden Lane
is created using wood, metal, thousands of individual
pieces of felt, as well as more than seven litres of fabric
glue. “Little did I know I would have to use so much math
in its construction as I had to deal with differing
circumferences and geometries to get it to work,” she
says. The asymmetrical fantasy castle is described as a
“delightful property with old-world charm and breathtaking
views fit for a queen”. Christiansen says as a child she
was always more interested in palaces and castles than gowns
and dresses. “If only I could explore all the fascinating
rooms, towers and hallways of a castle. What magic it would
be to live in a castle,” she says. Christiansen has had 13
previous World of WearableArt garments, winning the Open
award for Gothic Habit in 2014, which was also runner
up to the Supreme WOW Award.
Ancient civilisations mixed with the modern punk movement proved inspiration for David Walker (Eugene, United States). His garment, Ajaw Eamanom depicts “someone of importance with a little bit of attitude,” he says. The name comes from the Mayan word for ‘ruler’ and his mother’s name - Mona Mae - spelled backwards. Walker says “at 93 [she] is still the boss of the seven of us.” He began with simple sketches but it took on a life of its own, with changes and additions as he constructed, which he says was a “rewarding way to design”, although many extra hours were spent perfecting. Walker is a previous Supreme World of WearableArt Award winner, having taken the top honour for his 2009 garment Lady Of The Wood. Ajaw Eamanom is his eighth World of WearableArt garment.
Wife and husband team Dawn Mostow (Seattle, United States) and Ben Gould’s triptych garment Foreign Bodies showcases a love of science fiction, an appreciation for technological frontiers and a dash of humour. The inflatable bodysuits resemble a red blood cell, a white blood cell and the third a “world beyond this microcosm”, a group of “foreign bodies” clinging to an outer casing. “Each of these ‘nanites’ represents the newly pioneered nanotechnology frequently featured in the news today,” Mostow explains. The garment leaves open the questions of whether the third cell was sick to begin with, or whether the nanites infected the cell with something malevolent. Mostow has another award-winning garment in this year’s show, Lady Ethereal, which she created with Snow Winters.
Dawn Mostow (Seattle, United States) and Snow Winters’ (Tacoma, United States) garment Lady Ethereal offers a Victorian silhouette reimagined for the space age. The cyberpunk garment is a celebration of feminine form and celestial possibilities. The pair met at their local maker space last year and became fast friends, bonding over laser cutting and wearable technology. Mostow looked at Victorian silhouettes to achieve a curvaceous, flowing and powerful form in galaxy-patterned latex, while Winters explored the challenge of transforming acrylic into a material that pushed it past its rigid nature, creating a shape that echoed the gown’s voluptuous shape. Mostow, a fashion designer, has created latex garments for films including Total Recall and Guardians of the Galaxy 2 as well as on pop stars including Katy Perry and Beyonce. Mostow first learned of World of WearableArt after visiting the international exhibition at Seattle’s EMP Museum. Mostow has another award-winning garment in this year’s show, Foreign Bodies, which she created with her husband Ben Gould.
Grace DuVal (Chicago,
United States) was inspired by her struggles with depression
in creating Mind the Synaptic Gap. She describes the
garment as a “joy monster, a personification of
depression.” The unpredictable creature can go from silly
and hyper one minute to lackadaisical and aloof the next,
she says. The body was created using 350 recycled bicycle
inner tubes while the head is iridescent vinyl covering
carved, sharp facets. “For the past decade I have dealt
with anxiety and depression, and have often marvelled at
how deeply altered my moods can become simply because of
one tiny compound that circulates through my body and
brain,” DuVal says. In 2017 she created an award-winning
piece which was runner up to the WOW Supreme Award,
Refuse Refuge where she discovered the process of
bike tube fringing and she began working on this year’s
garment the day she got back from last year’s show.
Laura Thapthimkuna (Chicago, United States), Stephen Ions (Biddulph Moor, United Kingdom) and Patrick Delorey’s (New York City, United States) garment Baroness of Vortex 6 is described as an “ancient being awoken from a rip in the space time continuum”. This will open a portal to another dimension where the Baroness will emerge from. Made using plastic, silk, steel and vinyl, this garment from first-time WOW entrants is entered in the Avant-garde Section. Her head and torso are ornate with a complex black exoskeleton that “has the power to swallow entire galaxies,” explains Thapthimkuna. “The lower torso of her body encompasses a slightly spherical landscape of dark matter with a curtain of silver folds beneath it that contain the actual folds of space time.” She says with the Baroness’ arrival, a “new cosmic age will be upon us all.”