iD International Emerging Designer Awards Results

For the first time in the 16 year history of the iD International Emerging Design Awards, the awards winners were named at a show they were unable to attend.

At a glittering event at Otago Polytechnic, the film showcasing the 32 finalists in this year’s winners was premiered before the winners were announced. They are:

Winner iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2020

• Stina Randestad, The Swedish School of Textiles, Borås, Sweden. Collection ‘Hybrids’

Second Place iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2020

• Shrinvanti Roy, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia. Collection ‘Flowing Rhythm’.

Third Place iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2020

• Marlena Czak, Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts, Łódź, Poland. ‘Why me, why me‘

Finalists from 14 countries filmed themselves and their collections on their phones in their bedrooms, apartment building hallways and parks during lockdown. They sent their video to Dunedin and it was edited into a wonderful film by NHNZ. Paradoxically the film provided a very intimate look at the emerging finalists, as viewers got to see them explain their designs, their inspiration and see them in their own environment.

With impending global travel restrictions forcing organisers the Board of iD Dunedin Inc to take the show online, judging was undertaken on video by an international panel of 16 jurors from five countries. The panel led by head judge Tanya Carlson of Tanya Carlson (New Zealand) was:

• Adrien Yakimov Roberts, International Director at Grad Fashion Week in London (UK)
• Dame Denise L'Estrange-Corbet, WORLD (New Zealand)
• Donna Tulloch, Mild Red (New Zealand)
• Doris de Pont, New Zealand Fashion Museum (New Zealand)
• Doris Raymond, The Way We Wore (USA)
• Fiona Ralph, sustainability journalist and former iD International Emerging Designer Awards finalist (New Zealand)
• Lutz Huelle, LUTZ (France)
• Margarita Robertson, NOM*d (New Zealand)
• Patty Huntington, fashion journalist ABC Australia and WWD (Australia)
• Sara Maino, New Talents Editor of Vogue Italia (Italy)
• Sara Munro, Company of Strangers (New Zealand)
• Stefan Siegel, Director Not Just a Label (USA)
• Stephen Jones, Stephen Jones Millinery (UK)
• Stiofán Sopelza, Mittelmoda Fashion Awards Project Manager Mittelmoda (Italy)
• Wynn Crawshaw, Wynn Hamlyn (New Zealand)

Tanya Carlson said although designs were submitted before the global Covid-19 pandemic, finalists' fashion reflected their observations on challenges faced by the world. “It was wonderful to see young people thinking creatively of ways to change global habits. Collectively they showed outstanding use of recycled fabric, clever upcycling and embraced new technologies. There was also an overall trend to tell their own story through references to their ethnicity and culture which was explored with beautiful, sensitive design.”

iD Dunedin Fashion Inc. co-chair Dr Margo Barton said judging and hosting the show online provided an unparalleled opportunity to make the show truly global and draw upon some of the world’s most experienced fashion judges. She thanked them all for their contribution to make the awards so successful and for supporting emerging talent.

iD Dunedin Fashion Inc. co-chair Sally Peart said the online video format enabled ID Fashion to extend the reach of this iconic event from Dunedin to an international audience. She said early indications were that the Awards' reach would be significantly more international and she was aware of finalists in many countries watching the winners video announcement via Facebook Live. She thought video may become the norm for delivering this global competition – the only emerging designer awards in the world which is open to finalists from throughout the world.

Winner iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2020

Stina Randestad’s collection ‘Hybrids’ swapped the design order to put fabric first. Her design process began with the question 'what happens when different materials are put together?' Through trial and error she discovered two fabric manipulation techniques that she continued working with; sewing stretchy and thick materials and cutting and layering materials. These new materials generated movement and expression when they were draped upon many bodies and from this exercise Stina was able to decide how the fabrics would work best in garments, switching the usual process.

Judges’ comments about Stina’s collection included: 'Just subliminal, outstanding’…’Very exciting approach’…’Excellent use of colour’… ‘Amazing use of fabrics and the manipulation into garments, unexpected combinations created unexpected results.’… ‘Wow! Amazing. Incredible movement, stunning textures, playful, modern, original.’

Second Place iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2020

Shrinvanti Roy, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia. Collection ‘Flowing Rhythm’.

Srinvanti’s ‘Flowing Rhythm’ collection stems from research around art therapy which explored the principles of rhythm and repetition. She then considered how rhythm and repetition manifest in textile and garment making. Textile art is formed through a process that generates responses in a body, with repetition eventually creating flow in design, which in turn becomes a reflective state of existence.

Judges’ comments about Shrinvanti’s collection included: 'Love, love, love, so beautiful, mystical, ethereal, historical'… ‘makes me want to know more, to touch and wear them and inspect how they are made’….’Impressive sustainable sourcing of waste denim. Love the colours. Wearable yet fashion-forward.’…. ‘Extraordinary handwork, and interesting silhouettes.’

Third Place iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2020

Marlena Czak, Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts, Łódź, Poland. ‘Why me, why me‘

Marlena’s intention was to use design to contrast sacred and profane. Therefore ‘Why me, why me‘ contains unique fabrics, as well as ready-to-wear patterns. Needle felting with fabric cuttings is the designer's own invention. This technique allowed her to make unique, double-faced fabrics. The left side is full of small after-production cuttings which she puts on the fabric and then pricks with a needle. The right side has fluffy fibres-embroidery. The technique gives a mix of different fibres and colours creating new visual effects. All this creates a vibrant effect which seems to be a never-ending spiritual experience. It took about 3000 hours to prepare fabrics for the collection.

Judges’ comments about Marlena’s collection included: ‘Love the shapes Intriguing, unexpected’… ‘Great silhouettes and imaginative presentation’….’Loved the creation of the fabric and the use of both sides. Outstanding collection’.

PEOPLE’S CHOICE

Now the professional jury has made its judgement, fashion lovers from across the world are being invited to vote for their favourite designer. From Saturday 8 until Sunday 30 August head to https://www.idfashion.co.nz/2020-op-peoples-choice view the 2020 iD International Emerging Designer Awards video and vote for your favourite designer in the Otago Polytechnic People’s Choice Awards. On Monday 31 August the Otago Polytechnic People’s Choice Awards winners will be named.

With the emphasis on developing the first online iD International Emerging Designer Awards and uncertainty caused by Covid-19, the iD Dunedin Board Inc has committed to hosting the 2021 iD International Emerging Designer Awards online again, with an associated live performance and the timing to coincide with Otago Museum’s 2021 exhibition Fashion Fwd >> Disruption through Design, which starts at the end of March 2021. The board has decided to postpone plans to hold the iD Established Dunedin Designer Show pencilled in for the Dunedin Railway Station February 2021, and are continuing to review opportunities.

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