Long-Term Damage From Acid Moisturisers
Moisturisers that contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or glycolic acids are causing long-term damage to skin, according
to leading Australian naturopath David Lyons.
He says using acids to strip away the outer cells of the skin causes sun sensitivity, as well as depleting the base
moisture level of the skin.
“The same result could be achieved by rubbing lemon juice or cola drink over your face every day, which wouldn’t cost
the $200 to $500 many of these creams sell for,” Mr Lyons said.
“Glycolic acid, for example, has its beginnings in the metal industry, where it is widely used for polishing stainless
steel because of its acid etching qualities.
“AHAs, glycolic acid, fruit acids, and even vitamin C products, at any concentration, are essentially irritating
compounds,” Mr Lyons said. “They work by irritating the skin. Fluid then moves into the affected area to try to dilute
the irritant.”
“This then ‘plumps out’ the skin to a small degree, reducing the depth of wrinkles. It is purely a temporary effect”.
Mr Lyons is in New Zealand this week to educate professionals. He has treated skin problems in his naturopathic clinic
for the past 20 years and formulates and hand-makes plant extract skin care range Simplicité. He accepts some users of
these products will initially find apparent improvement to fine facial lines, but says the short-term results achieved
by ‘acid etching’ may actually make skin age more quickly. “The FDA (U.S. Federal Food and Drug Administration) and the
European Commission have warned that certain products using AHAs and glycolic acid will increase the sensitivity of the
skin to sunlight,” he said.
“This surely increases the risk of sun damage in the future, not a wise choice in such a sun-rich country as New
Zealand.”
After observing skin conditions for 20 years in his Brisbane natural therapies clinic, Mr Lyons is convinced that the
appearance of fine lines can be reduced just as quickly and with longer lasting effect, by gentle exfoliation, applying
‘enzyme lift’ plant masks, and feeding high levels of organic, broad spectrum antioxidants into the skin.
These methods, he says, improve the structure and health of the skin instead of damaging it. “The secret is in using
fresh, organically grown, gently extracted plant nutrients,” Mr Lyons said.
“Natural vitamin C in non-acidic form is essential in the formation of new collagen in the skin. Anti-oxidants such as
rosehip oil, pumpkin seed, and hazelnut also help reverse sun damage and early ageing symptoms”.
Simplicité is the skin care range of choice for well-informed New Zealanders such as TV presenter Petra Bagust. She has
used Simplicité throughout her pregnancy and is now preparing to share the range with her new baby.
Simplicité is available from selected stores and salons throughout New Zealand. For stockists please telephone 0800
116468.